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 can anyone make blades

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T O P I C    R E V I E W
galeforce Posted - 19/12/2007 : 12:53:52
Can someone make me some blades for my ametek genny, I have bought the soilpipe but can't seem to get them right? I want 3 of them making please. Or am I better buying a set?

Reduce your C02, go Green.
13   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Victor Posted - 28/12/2007 : 20:59:33
I spent a lot of last year testing blades and different sizes. I found the ben blade plans about the best around...They are ideal for the dynohub.

I have also been making different type of blades that are currently on test and have less drag in high output winds.. More detasils on them in 2008...


Victor Posted - 28/12/2007 : 20:50:44
If you are having problems folks try using the gutter pipe but get the one that is not a full pipe!! have a look at the tialfin gutter pip i`m using! Reason i`m showing this will allow people to have a straight edge to work with!! I find buying that guttering that is used to catch rainwater on a garden hut the best way of making blades.....

Basically you have a straight edge and thats ideal!!! Then you have the other part of the blade to round off!!

HOPE THIS HELPS !! GET THE HALF SLICED PIPE NOT THE COMPLETE ROUND PIPE!


galeforce Posted - 21/12/2007 : 00:30:32
Hi All,
Well today 21.12.07 I had another attempt at making the blades and took nobicus advice and stuck the blade design to the pipe, then cut it out and I was well impressed with it. It took me longer to hoover all the mess up after I had finished than to make the blades. Only thing was I had to put the blades in warm water to get the paper off it, then cleaned them with white spirit. I have now balanced the blades after spraying them, so I would like to say a big thank you to everyone for their advice. I will post a picture when I get it up and running.

Reduce your C02, go Green.
Mertz Posted - 20/12/2007 : 01:22:46
I set up a jig and cut the pipe into thirds on the table saw. I then mark the top for width and the bottom for how much of the full width of pipe I want to leave and then use a heavy piece of paper (It is actually 2 thicknesses glued together from another project)connecting the points and trace a pencil line on the 1/3 section of blade. I cut along the line with a band saw. The pipe always stays flat to the table. I then drill a 1/2" hole about 4" from the base and 2 1/2" in. I draw lines to the hole and cut out the piece with the band saw. That is the section I bolt to the hub. I glue a piece of pipe on the inside of the hub piece and the blade for extra strength. I have also glued a piece on the back but I think this creates drag. I have cut my total time for 3 blade to about an hour. I then bolt everything to the hub and balance it by first hanging it from a string. Then I rebalance on a easy turning motor. I have had very good luck with this method. I was even able to balance a 2 blade prop very well.

Mertz
galeforce Posted - 19/12/2007 : 20:16:09
Hey guys, thanks very much for your help and kind words. I will try again tommorow as we have finished for xmas now until after the new year. Will let you know how I go on.

Reduce your C02, go Green.
agrifabs Posted - 19/12/2007 : 17:58:17
i used a 'slitting' disc on an angle grinder, these discs are about 1mm thick, it took me about 5 minutes max to cut the three blades out, i often use the spray technique thats mentioned above, it probable the most acurate way of tracing things out from a pattern, you wan use any spray to do this - it makes a definate line of the edge of the pattern if you know what i mean!
nobicus Posted - 19/12/2007 : 17:46:03
Print three copies of the plan, or five if you are doing five blades. You can buy an aerosol of Spray Mount from art shops that is meant to peel off after use, sometimes called de-mounting or repositioning spray (Mine is made by 3M). Stick the three patterns to your pipe. Use a metal cutting blade in your jigsaw which should be turned down to its slowest speed or you might be melting the plastic with the heat. Sand paper on a cork block to shape and balance and do it by hand for maximum control.
I am also going to do the strimmer line stuck to the back of the blade(search this and the Otherpower forum for details) for maximum quiet.
This is all my theory 'cos I haven't made my blades yet but I will Oscar, I will!
gotwind Posted - 19/12/2007 : 16:48:40
If your really struggling, Superwindy has made loads of blades, I think he enjoys it

I'm sure he would let you buy/have a set.
Only downside is that I believe he is in Australia for Christmas.

The blades should be achievable from the plans however.

Ben.
Del Posted - 19/12/2007 : 15:57:36
Shouldn't need to - just use tape to stop it moving as you draw round it.
galeforce Posted - 19/12/2007 : 15:54:23
Thanks del, I will try making the blades again, would it be better if I printed the blade design onto thick card?

Reduce your C02, go Green.
Del Posted - 19/12/2007 : 15:20:44
I'm sure everyone has their own way of cutting blades but I did my own template and then with a marker pen drew around the template onto the pipe and then cut them out with a normal wood saw.

I'd then weigh each blade on electronic kitchen scales to get them to be the same exact weight as each other.

I would then use an electric planer (I clamped mine upside down in a black and becker workmate) to taper the trailing edge and use a palm sander to round the leading edge. *** BE VERY CAREFUL WITH ELECTRIC PLANERS***

Hope this helps.

Del.
galeforce Posted - 19/12/2007 : 15:06:30
Hi del,
I bought bens plans a while back. The part I seem to be struggling with is transfering the paper template onto the pipe, and cutting straight with a jigsaw.

Reduce your C02, go Green.
Del Posted - 19/12/2007 : 14:19:54
Hi galeforce,

If you're having probs, consider buying Ben's plans. £2.99 I think. I've done quite a bit of blade theory reading over the last few months and the more I read the more i think that these blades are very well thought out in terms of design, length and number for the Ametek type motors and those similar.

Cheers

Del.

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