| Author |
 Topic  |
|
|
fungus
Moderator
290 Posts |
 Posted - 05/08/2007 : 22:46:47
|
Just thought I'd let you know what I've been up to recently..
First off, I've completed an ametk wind turbine, flying in the back garden now.. The frame is loosely based around ben's design, apart from that I've used a stub pipe instead of a bicycle bearing, the blades are hand carved out of elm and work very well. This is using the 38v ametek, max I've seen so far is about 65w...
More about that here: http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2007/7/31/161922/545
A couple of days ago I got a 1963 dynohub for only £5 from the local bike shop, I've dissassembled it/cleaned it out/regreased the bearings and it spins very smoothly, of course with the cogging. Started to make the frame for it, simply a bit of box section with one of the sides cut down about 30mm and bent upwards, clamped onto with a nut..
Pictured below is the dynohub+frame along with the blade templates I printed out ages ago, I'll see if I can get some steel sheet at B&Q tomorrow to make the blades.
<img src="http://www.anotherpower.com/albums/fungus/PICT0196.sized.jpg" width=80%>
|
|
|
fungus
Moderator
290 Posts |
Posted - 05/08/2007 : 22:51:33
|
Grr..damn non-html forums...
 |
 |
|
|
Victor
Junior Member
United Kingdom
386 Posts |
Posted - 05/08/2007 : 23:23:06
|
I`m looking forward to seeing this one built.I`m into the Dynohubs at the moment and wonder how well the steel sheet will perform.
I decided that having any weight on the dynohub also adds to the load.One way getting round that is using bens blade plans to make them start in low winds.
I added a little oil to the hub and it cleared out the old rubbish sitting in it.The older DYnohubs from the 50`s have a spot on them that you can insert oil.These dynohubs are just as good but I like the 80`s ones and especially the 1966 ones.63 looks like a good year too.... lol
I didn`t think I could make the steel one so went with bens PVC blades idea as I dont have any good tools at the moment to cut the mild steel etc...
You can also play about with the tightness of the Dynohub to get less cogging...these units might not be the most powerful,but they hardly make a moise in my garden and they are built to last.....
Just think how many have been put into the council junk site that could have been used......
Here is some old pics of my Dynohubs. I think these are the easiest ones for gotwind starting members.
|
|
|
|
Victor
Junior Member
United Kingdom
386 Posts |
Posted - 05/08/2007 : 23:25:23
|
| I`m going to take photogrpahs of various Dynohubs in the next few days and upload the differences in these hubs..one by one... |
|
|
|
fungus
Moderator
290 Posts |
Posted - 05/08/2007 : 23:40:33
|
Hi Victor,
Yep, they are nice alternators, it was very rough at first but after cleaning all the gunk out the inside and packing it with new grease it spins freely. IMHO with these the more cogging the better as it means higher field strength :-D
I had already printed out all the templates ages ago for it, I have tried pvc blades and am not too impressed, I thought I'd try something different...
Forgot to put a pic of the ametek in, heres one:
 |
Edited by - fungus on 05/08/2007 23:41:49 |
|
|
|
gotwind
Forum Admin
United Kingdom
843 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2007 : 21:48:01
|
Fungus.
Good to see you here and considering the aluminium blades - I think the P.V.C blades are a better option.
4,5 or 6 blades on a 4 foot diameter prop seems reasonable for the 'coggy' dynohub.
Good luck, and have fun.
Ben.
The Futures Green - Getwind of it. |
|
|
|
Rich
Starting Member
Spain
23 Posts |
Posted - 07/08/2007 : 12:19:31
|
Absolutely - I have 6 18" long blades on my Dynohub rotor. The cogging is quite pronounced, but it spins satisfactorily at low wind speeds and really rattles around it the wind picks up.
Please share photos of the aluminium vanes as and when. |
|
|
| |
Topic |
|
Some of the stuff I've been doing recently..
